How to: Changing the clutch master and slave cylinders

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How to: Changing the clutch master and slave cylinders Empty How to: Changing the clutch master and slave cylinders

Post by xxfallacyxx on Wed 26 Jan 2011, 9:34 pm

Disclaimer: You do this on your own. I'm not responsible if anything happens under your watch, including but not limited to: spontaneous combustion of objects, improper use of tools, breaking of parts or self, blood loss, hair loss, or rule #32.

I will attempt to snap some pictures and insert them in the appropriate places. The procedures are very simple however, and you should be good without them. If there are any discrepancies please let me know so I may amend the write-up.
*: Some tips and tricks added to the bottom, thanks to Atropos.

*A set of flare-nut wrenches to assist in taking off the hydraulic lines. The nuts are most likely 10mm for the hydraulic lines, you can buy a small set of the FN wrenches for about $12, has 3 wrenches/6 sizes.
*Standard mechanics ratchet set.
*Penetrating lubricant always makes the job easier (WD40, Liquid Wrench)
*Anti-Seize coating. You're down there pulling bolts, why not make it easier in case there's a next time.
*A light source that will illuminate but not blind.

Clutch Slave Cylinder:
First, drain the fluid reservoir. Should be two 12mm bolts, and 1 hose clamp to remove it. Once removed drain the fluid into an appropriate container, and dispose of it legally or discretely, your choice. Now find the hydraulic line on the slave cylinder end(front of transmission, left of exhaust manifold), then follow it up towards the engine block. There should be a little clip/holder(about under the distributor) keeping it steady. Remove the bolt there (10mm) to free up the line so you have more room to move it. Have a rag handy, then move back down the line to the slave cylinder and use a 10mm flare nut wrench to remove the hydraulic line. All of the fluid left in the lines will drain out, as well as what's in the master cylinder. Carefully move the hydraulic line out of the way, and get in there with the 1/4" drive ratchet with appropriate SIX SIDED 12mm socket. Test the fit to make sure it's proper, then proceed to remove both 12mm bolts that mount the slave cylinder. The slave cylinder should fall off now. Getting the new one on can be a pain in the butt, but if you can push the cylinder pin in with one hand there's a trick you can do. Leave the pin out of place when you mount the new slave cylinder, rest it on top of the clutch actuation arm. Threading the bolts can be a pain as well as you're basically blind once your hand gets down there, but do the back bolt closer to the engine first, then the other. Once both bolts are thread, compress the cylinder and pop the pin into it's proper place. Finish tightening the bolts. Make them snug enough so you know they're not going anywhere, but don't over-tighten them. A quarter turn after they stop moving will be more than enough. Don't forget to put the hydraulic line back in it's clip and bolt it in.

Clutch Master Cylinder:
*Possibly a new gasket for the CMC
*U-Joint for whichever size ratchet you decide to use(3/8" drive would be appropriate)
*Removing the dead pedal could very well ease your adventures under the dash. Nuts are reported to be 10mm(ty DreamReaperX)

Same as the CSC, remove and drain the reservoir. Again you will need the 10mm FN wrench to remove the hydraulic line. Once that's done, straighten up and have a good stretch, mentally prepare yourself for the awkward positioning you're about to encounter. Roll the drivers seat all the way back, make sure the steering wheel is as high up as it will go. Position yourself as awkwardly as possible under the dash and have a good look(using the light) at your clutch pedal assembly. There is a pin which attaches the actuating arm of the CMC to the clutch pedal. The pin is held in place with a cotter pin. Remove the cotter pin using the flat portion of a flat head screw driver, then remove the larger pin and don't lose it! Look towards the back of the clutch pedal assembly and on each side, diagonal from each other, there are two nuts (should see a doctor about that, one being a little lower than the other is normal but these are further apart). Those are the two nuts that hold the CMC in place. IIRC they are both 13mm, as always test for fit and use a six sided socket, a deep one if you have it available. Remove both nuts and the CMC is now free, go back to the engine bay and remove the old one and compare the new and old side by side. Make sure the fork on the end of the actuating arm isn't too wide or too tight to fit back on the clutch pedal assembly. Take the new CMC and put it in the hole, gently at first. Sometimes getting the bolts through the holes can be a pain. Take your time, be patient, you may have to back it out and push it back in several times before you get it. Once it's seated well, go back inside the car and thread the bolts, if your hands are small enough doing it by hand will make it much easier. Use the ratchet to tighten them up, then the rest of installation is simply the reverse of removal.

Finish: Bleed the hydraulic system. Honestly, it goes a lot faster if you have someone to help, find a friend, family member, or small child that can be coerced into manual labor without pay.

Anyone questions please feel free to ask here, via PM, via facebook if you have me, or via text if you have my number. Positive rep is always appreciated, and it will in turn keep our Kronn working hard to surpass me. Smile

[QUOTE=atropos;2619514]Just did both the slave and master cylinder replacement in my car today. Wasn't too bad at all.

Some 'captain obvious' things you may want to add to this writeup:

-if you're replacing the slave, do yourself a favor and take the battery out. There's very little space to work between the slave unit and the fan in front of it. Removing the battery and the small wire clamp below it will let you move the lower radiator hose off its C-shaped support and completely out of the way, and makes life a ton easier when trying to deal w/ the bolts that hold the slave on (as well as fitting the line, etc.).

-The flare nut on the slave is a 10mm, the one on the main is a 12, so make sure you have both wrench sizes.Tentatively, I've had different experiences. As I said in the write-up, always test fit your wrenches before torquing away.

-I had a bit of an issue putting the new master cylinder in, as that top bolt (the one that is no fun at all to get at) was getting hung up a bit on the inside clutch pedal bracket. It makes life easier to have one person feeding the master into place, while you're under the pedal wiggling the bracket around slightly.

-take the front seat out.'s 4 bolts, takes literally 2 minutes or less, and allows you to lay down on your back and have a far less unpleasant experience trying to deal with the cotter pin, the clutch pedal spring system, etc.

-for both units, make sure to thread the fluid lines on BEFORE you crank down the 12mm bolts that hold each on respectively. This will make for a bit less of a headache when trying to get the flare nuts threaded on correctly, they can be a bit finicky.

Happy motoring![/QUOTE]
The Meat
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