How to: Replace a Rear Wheel Bearing Hub (w/pics!)

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How to: Replace a Rear Wheel Bearing Hub (w/pics!)

Post by xxfallacyxx on Wed 26 Jan 2011, 9:24 pm

Ok, first and foremost a disclaimer. Nothing you read on this site can be held responsible for damage to your car, cat, dog, property etc. If, in the event of working on your car, while following the instructions contained within, you happen to seriously injure/vegetabalize/kill yourself YOU are responsible. Safety is ALWAYS paramount, and it is your responsibility to make sure ALL safety precautions are taken PROPERLY.

ALWAYS use the correct tool for the job(there's an example in here about WHY you should). If you do not, you are responsible for cleaning up your own mess. I will offer suggestions, but I will not drive across the state/country/landmass/planet to help you fix it. If you're local and willing to buy me food, then we can talk. Thumb up.

What this is: A writeup by yours truly for replacing REAR WHEEL BEARINGS. This only applies to the rears, as the fronts need to be pressed on with more force than anyone without a beard can muster Wink I've also decided that the images being centered and IMMEDIATELY below the corresponding step makes this write-up easier to read. Still, any questions please either ask in this thread, or PM to me.

Q: Isn't there already a rear wheel bearing write-up?
A: Yes, but is has NO pictures, is BURIED in the archives of the site, and is not tagged properly for search purposes.

[SIZE="4"]BEGIN:[/SIZE]
It doesn't hurt to have a penetrating lubricant on hand. I used Liquid Wrench on all of the bolts before I loosened/removed them.

Tools Needed:

  • A Standard Ratchet Set with 1/2" Drive Ratchet and Sockets
  • A 1/2" Drive Breaker Bar (makes getting the spindle nut off much easier)
  • A Quality Torque Wrench
  • An impact driver(impact screw driver) with an appropriate sized phillips bit.
  • A small flat head screw driver.
  • A 32mm 1/2" drive socket(for removing the spindle nut)
  • A rubber mallet.
  • Jack Stands/lift capable of supporting the car.
  • A jack/lift capable of safely lifting the car
  • Replacement spindle nut(s)
  • Replacement wheel bearing(s)
  • Two(2) 8x12mm bolts


Step 1: Break the torque on your lug nuts. Lift the car and support it on the jack stands. Transmission(auto) should be in REVERSE(PARK) to prevent the car from rolling forward once it's in the air.
Step 2: Finish removing your lug nuts, then remove your tire carefully(prevent damage to your car, rim, yourself.) This is what you're greated by.
Step 3: Use a small flat head screw driver to remove the spindle nut cap(bump in center of rotor), then using your breaker bar and 32mm socket, loosen and remove the spindle nut.
No pitcure, it's straight forward.

Step 4: Remove the brake hose mounting bolt. 10mm I believe. Possibly 12mm.

No pic, straight forward

Step 5: Release your E-Brake. Remove the TWO(2) caliper mounting bracket bolts. Remove the bracket/caliper assembly(a good prying tool comes in handy), and hang it to one side.


Step 6: Remove the two 6mm disc brake retaining screws using the impact driver.(This is where I had to deviate from this. I used a regular screw driver and those damn screws WILL strip if you do that.) Picture is for educational purposes. If you strip the screws, grab safety glasses, a power drill, and a cobalt drill set. It's easiest to remove the screws by drilling the heads off.
Step 7: Use two 8x12mm bolts and screw them into the two holes that were unoccupied by anything. This pushes the brake disc off of the hub you're going to be replacing. The Helms manual recommends your only do two full turns of each bolt to prevent possible damage to the rotor. I concur with the helms manual.

There you can see both the screws that have been drilled out, and the hole for the 8x12mm bolts(black hole)

My hub started coming off as I was working, so I pulled it all the way off for ease. You can see the two 8x12mm bolts screwed into the disc.

Disc and hub separated.
Step 8: Remove your hub bearing from the knuckle.
No pic, straight forward

Step 9: Installation is mostly the reverse of removal. You may have to use the rubber mallet to re-install your brake disc. Your choice on whether or not you want to re-use the retaining screws for the brake disc.

[SIZE="4"]PROPERLY TORQUE THESE ITEMS WHEN YOU REINSTALL THEM!!![/SIZE]
Torque Specs:

  • Spindle Nut - 134 lbs-ft
  • Brake Disc Retaining Screw - 7 lbs-ft
  • Caliper Bracket Bolts - 83 lbs-ft
  • Lug Nuts - 80lbs-ft


If I missed anything, please let me know. I did the actual procedure about a month ago and am just now getting to the write-up. Rep is greatly appreciated. TY Smile

xxfallacyxx
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